'A Fortnight of Tears': Tracey Enim @ White Cube Bermondsey

I was reading the March 2019 issue of Vogue and came across a great insightful interview with Tracey Enim. She was describing how she decided to have a break from the art world and hide away and her reflection on some of the mistakes she believed she made in her career. Major catalyst for this was her experience of tragedy (her mum was ill and passed away) and heartbreak (ex boyfriends). I've always been a fan of Enim's work and I always saw the brilliance in her work when many saw (and probably still do) only outrage in her style of art. So when I saw that she had a new exhibition and I needed some inspiration, I decided to take a look.

I have never been to White Cube before and its such beautiful space. Literally anything will look amazing in there! I want to say I want to have my work shown there but its not like I have a huge back catalogue so maybe I will stick to being an observer. For now... I love the rawness of the brick and concrete of the building outside and then the feeling of expansion inside with the white, almost silvery lights ahead.

Step inside and we are shown a poem on insomnia. Now as I read this, I swear I said YES to every line. Because everything she said and described is what I have felt when I have had bouts of being unable to sleep.

It's a powerful introduction to what you are about to see for the rest of her work.

In the next room, you see giant photos taken on her iPhone showing her in a state of unrest from insomnia. The photos are all confrontational and imposing and instructive. A bit like how insomnia feels if it was a person. Now because I'm not totally sold on technology being involved in art because I like things that are manual to produce work, I am usually very wary of people using iPhones for art purposes. However, I know that's a very narrow minded view and I should get over it. Just because they are selfies and not taken on film with an SLR does not take away from the message she is trying to convey. I found this room quite overpowering so I didn't stay for long to look at them all. So I guess this made this work a success!

Now I'm definitely here for the paintings. After all that's what I love best: photographs and paintings. In this exhibition, Enim's painting are mostly created with tones of pink and blue and purple and red. Feminine and royal colours. Also life and death. There are self portraits as herself is her common subject matter as well as made up figures. Her paintings are expressive as her words. It's in the motion of her brushwork where they really tell a story. She makes the harrowing seemingly beautiful. And when you see the titles of some the work, it is quite horrific and disturbing to see what is in front of you.

If I haven't put a title underneath, its because I'm rubbish at noting down titles whilst I'm actually there and have to research them after. And I know the photography isn't the best. I'll get better.

But you never wanted me (2018)

In The Dead Dark of night I wanted you (2018)

There are many paintings depicting scenes of her mother whilst she was ill. This painting below was particularly moving to me.

I wanted to go with you- to Another world (2018)

The central figure looks vulnerable with a faded halo above with her head and she is also faceless, meaning that she may no longer be herself. The figure to the right may be the nurse but they also look like the virgin Mary as the red runs down the canvas, it depicts a sense of life running out and perhaps the numbers in the circle could be time becoming limited. 

Enim is never afraid to show vulnerable and fragile side of her self. Even though she doesn't give a shit at the same time. Its a beautiful sight to see even though it can be uncomfortable to watch for the more sensitive viewer.

As Vogue said..... 'It's his Maison now'

I don't know why Mr Galliano has got me feeling like I want to write again but it can only be a good thing, non?

John Galliano (sourced from Jan Welters)

Yesterday afternoon in a stark industrial setting near Buckingham Palace in London, John Galliano presented his first collection as newly appointed head of Maison Martin Margiela. I will be honest and say that MMM is a new name for me and I only saw the name dotted around and never took much notice of it. But looking through their back catalogue, Galliano was not the most obvious choice as he is more known and loved for his theatrics in, dare I say it, a more costume style rather than the more modern avant garde approach that MMM are known for.

(Sourced from Future Magazine... MMM collection in 2012)

It was definitely not typically him and I think was still in keeping with the MMM brand but I could definitely see a Galliano signature.

There were great historical references and also different art movements that I could see creeping in. Take this gorgeous coat which I think has tudor inspiration with the gilding and frogging, in 60s smock shape and then modernised with the clear pvc pockets.

Looking at some of the pieces reminded me of the Cubism movement and artists such as Picasso and also the artwork for The White Stripes album 'De Stijl', picked up by the faces that feature on some of the pieces and also the stripes on the shoes and hosiery.

If you look at this one below as well, he showed his rebellious side is still there, featuring a few pieces with raw edges of fabric and tacking on show. A reflection of him showing his insides to the world, perhaps? Maybe I'm over-thinking it but I feel I can see an emotional connection after the shameful sacking from Dior after his racist tirade in Paris in 2011. (Well I have to mention it somewhere, don't I?)

Weeping Woman 1937, Pablo Picasso

(Tate.org)

White Stripes 2nd album, De Stijl

(amazon.com)

I think the grandeur of some of the coats were possibly my personal favourites. The two coats below would be suitable for a cold night ride in a carriage through the forest with a dashing dandy.

Then surprisingly the later half of the collection was much more toned down in the sense of simplicity. I would never call Galliano's work simple. There always seems to be fine, intricate detail and everything finished to the T.  But he presented a simple, beautifully tailored, oversized suit and a perfectly deconstructed pair of trousers reconstructed into a dress. Very clever.

But of course, Galliano's theatrics can never be too far. I think this was the perfect statement to end the show with. The bejewelled mask is a nod back to the previous collection (as shown previously from the MMM collection in 2012) and to me says 'I have changed... but I am still me.'

Overall, I thought it was a really good return and the more I look at the pieces the more I like it. I think its one that grows on you. It's not the typical Galliano style throughout (I mean... he included denim short shorts. That did not have any business in the collection and definitely will not be featuring on my blog.) I'd love to know who did the amazing bejewelled make up though. When I think of Galliano's past collections, part of me does miss the extravagance and opulence that we know and love but as a whole I think its a great Watch This Space moment.

Look at the rest of the collection here.... What do you think?

-JV-



All unlinked photos are sourced from Style.com





'Make your peace and grab the gun'

I like my music with a little chaos and disaster and I have always admired female fronted band. Women who stand their ground in a male dominated industry. It's just good to hear girls pick up a guitar and scream. Just like Courtney Love wants us to.

With that in mind, I'd like to introduce you to a little punk rock band called Death Koolaid based in London town. Each with their own individual style and with their pint sized front lady so wonderfully named Siren Sycho, they are a force to be reckoned with when they hit the stage. But let me tell you that size does not matter when it comes to the deranged vocals from Siren's mouth. Together with sludgy and dragged up from the gutter guitars, Siren's gravel vocals sync with almost doll like moans together Linda Blair screams which send shivers through the crowd and pull them in by the throat.

I was lucky enough to be in the video for their single 'The 2nd Rule' (you'll see me on the right side of the guitarist). As the camera continually rotates, we see each member in position on their own stage getting crazy to the music with their messed up masked military dolls parading around them all under a circus tent. Think of Marilyn Manson's mOBSECENE girls if they were dragged through the fields of a biohazard scene when the funfair left town. The song never lets up and is just enough for you to want more with the barrage of noise that suddenly cuts dead. I can definitely see people getting wild in the mosh pit to this one (if only people put their phones away at gigs!). If you like grunge and punk rock influences, definitely take a butchers at Death Koolaid. These are ones to watch!

The 2nd Rule by Death Koolaid

DeathKoolaid on Facebook
DeathKoolaid on Twitter

Siren Sycho on Tumblr

....she was Beautiful and at Liberty to be Obscure so Wonderfully.

Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore show @ Somerset House.  

I went to this on Thursday and I'm so glad I caught this show (which ends on 2nd March) as I am forever missing exhibitions and shows saying I must go, I will go.... oh dammit it's gone! 

Assiting in the curating the show was one of her closest friends and fashion muse extraordinaire in her own right, Daphne Guinness, who bought the collection and loaned it for this exhibition. This wonderful collection of Isabella’s clothing and those oh so famous hats she used to wear, all housed in one spot, was a joy to see. It started from childhood and a small history on her background through her career as a stylist working with so many respected photographers and designers through to her untimely death where you can see the amazing tribute show by Alexander McQueen and Philip Treacy.

There were not so many other personal belonging; a few letters, a lipstick kiss on a napkin, her rolodex address book. It was all about her style and it gave a true feeling that fashion was her life and passion. There was no real focus about her death and was more of a celebration (which I was happy about). It was strange walking around recognising certain hats that I have seen her wearing in magazines. It was so very tempting to touch some of the things there, especially as the vast majority were garments designed by McQueen (who Isabella famously bought his entire graduate collection paying him £100 a month, receiving 1 garment at a time) and 99.9% of the hats were made by Treacy.

In her description of McQueens ‘Dante’ A/W 1996 collection, Isabella described him as ‘...[taking] ideas from the past and sabotages them with his cut to make them thoroughly new and in the context of today.  It is the complexity and severity of his approach to cut that makes him so modern.’  I think was a reflection in the way she dressed herself. Back to a time when women wore hats and gloves and would always be suitably dressed for an occasion. There is a sense of freedom and restriction her his work and the way she wore her clothes. McQueen once said that he wanted ‘people to be afraid of the women’ he dressed. Isabella was often misunderstood within the media, often described as bizzaire. I personally cannot stand descriptions like this. It’s not usual so its bizzaire? Which gives a feeling that something is not right. Can it not just be different?

The meticulous detail that went into each outfit and the references to art and history are very obvious throughout. I think this was one of my favourite outfits, taking inspiration from the matadors of Spain and the horns of bull.

Photo from thebritishfashionista 

Photo from decadentmanifesto

I thought the exhibition was a great tribute to the style and the life of Isabella Blow and a missed character within the fashion world as she bought excitement to what can be very homogenised at times. Extremely inspirational and I recommend you taking a sketchbook as there is too much to remember.

Click here for more details on visiting info

Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore 

Below is the Isabella Blow tribute show entitled 'La Dame Bleue'

-JV-

All photos belong to Jade Velveteese unless otherwise stated

Come and See

Ok I know I have been away for a LONG time and there is really and truly only one post on here. Albeit it an amazing post.... there's not much content other than that. It's mainly due to the fact I haven't had much cash to do much and other things have take priority. However, I want to breathe some much needed life into this blog. So without delaying any further....

Come And See- Jake and Dinos Chapman

@Serpentine Sackler Gallery

Today I was lucky to see this show as it closes tomorrow on Sunday. I remember seeing some of their work at the Saatchi Gallery about 10 years and was always impressed their approach in tackling subjects such as religion, mortality and politics. It's usually quite confrontational work and I think sometimes have quite an eerie feel to them which always leaves me with questions.  

Their most famous work, described as 'hellscapes', were the particular favourites of the crowd as there is so much to see in it. So many stories within one scene. The Nazis, the mutants, the skeletal zombies and the McDonald's characters all in one apocalyptic battle field. It looks very gruesome and so disturbing and as one of the visitors said 'you almost can't see who the bad guys are'. A definite reflection on the state of corruption in politics and the corporate world and how they collide and conspire together. Interesting that Ronald McDonald has been turned into a Jesus figure. Probably more people eat Maccy D's than turn up to church on Sunday. Who is the bigger icon? Which side are you on?

There were also four large black flags with smiley faces which initial look quite fun until you realise they are reminiscent of flags at a Nazi rally. The blue eyed Klu Klux Klan figures that were dotted around the exhibition, all with very startled expressions under their white hoods, also featured the smiley face symbol but the surprise is that they were wearing rainbow socks and Birkenstocks. Is this of the view point that we all take to corruption is someway when it's presented to us in a safe and amicable way? Really we are innocent but somehow we are held hostage to a corrupt world through politics and corporate companies? The KKK members were also present in the room where the short film Fucking Hell was being shown. Needless to say, I kept standing as I found those things a bit freaky as they were so life like. Mannequins are weird in general, let alone if they are dressed in KKK gear!

Other particular favourites were the 21 delicate pencil drawings What Really Happens To Us After We're Dead series. These ghostly and ethereal drawings were reminiscent of the recent research made by scientists in regards to brain waves that are omitted just before death. I would like to think that it has been inspired by this or it's an interpretation of the spirit leaving the body.

What I like about their work as a whole is that although it's dark and it is often highlighting the negative, which is something that we can fall victim to or push to the back of our minds, usually because it is uncomfortable and can raise fear or guilt within ourselves. The use of McDonalds characters add a sense of humour poking fun at those at the top of the financial totem pole. They are not afraid to confront and question those that are seen to have high status. This is also seen in the series of 8 paintings One Day You Will No Longer Be Loved. Inspired by the old masters and the high society persons at the time who would have paid artists to paint portraits to depict their status and self importance, these remade works on canvases with haphazardly placed rusted nails feature portraits with signs of decay and the ultimate demise of death; a sure reminder that no matter what status, political or religious views you may possess, the one thing in this life is the inescapable process of death.

Click link below for more info

Jake and Dinos Chapman- Come and See

-JV- 

All photos belong to Jade Velveteese

I Only Want You To Love Me

A retrospective exhibition of work of Miles Aldridge at Somerset House, London

I'm going to be honest. I had never heard of this photographer and I definitely would have taken note of the name if I had seen any of these photographs. In fact, the only reason why I came across it was because I was lurking on Jodie Harsh's Instagram. Sometimes, crime pays.

Now, I know that this blog is meant to have an element of darkness but not necessarily in the literal sense. Aldridge's work is bright and bold in colour but very often has sinister dark undertones with a spank of sexual tension. There is definitely horror within his view of beauty.  His photos are glamourous and almost plastic but they are still believable and I think this is because he still uses film over digital techniques.  I love photographers that choose film over digital... no happy snappy click click bang bang over here! To me it means there's a little thought and time taken with these photographs and that attention to detail is paramount.  It's a real testament not only to Aldridge's work but also with his team with the make up artists and hair stylists who transform these models into something so doll like.

There is a sense of exploitation and victimisation.... maybe I'll even say masochistic? There blank expressions make me feel like they are letting this happen or that their face says one thing. Perfect hair. Perfect make up. In seemingly perfect scenes. But their expressions say that their is something else on their mind. I love the violence vs vanity aspect.  The colours pop out at you which for a second hides the sometimes sinister scene in front of you. I can definitely see where he gets his approach to women in the same way that Alfred Hitchcock approached his female starlets and he names him and as well as David Lynch as one of his main inspirations. Overall, I love the beauty in Aldridge's work and the dark and seedy undertones. I would show you more of his work... but I think it would be best if you investigate yourself.

If David LaChappelle for bright colour packed scenes or Guy Bourdin for fetish influenced and film- produced excellence suits your taste, you should definitely check this out.

Click the link below for more information

Miles Aldridge- I Only Want You To Love Me @ Somerset House

-JV-

Hey everyone!

This is going to be my new venture.  It's going to be a hotspot for art, fashion, music and anything else that I think is cool. And usually with a little twisted darkness. Come follow me down the rabbit hole.

Jade Velveteese